Anybody who tries to tell me deserts don’t get cold is
going to get a kick in the head. Now mind you, I know they can get cold, but
generally, they warm up quickly. Well,
not deserts in the winter time. It might
take hours to reach a bearable temperature.
Sunrise found Natalie and I freezing to death in Joshua Tree National
Park. While we were not prepared to eat each other like the Donners or those
poor saps in the Andes, it was damn cold.
Try carrying a metal photography tripod without gloves during
subfreezing windchills. We arrived early
so we can have the place to ourselves and try to get some nice lighting for
some pictures. Within minutes, we
regretted not having enough winter gear to get us over the hump.
Despite the lack of seasonably appropriate planning, the
place is stunning. Joshua Trees, named
by early Mormons who thought the sky-reaching branches reminded them of Joshua,
cover the landscape. (You probably figured the Joshua Tree had something to do
with place. After all, it is the name of the park. Aww, nevermind. Sorry to insult you.) While
some areas have Joshuas that are a bit scattered, there are areas were the
trees cover the landscape like a forest.
One can’t help but to think of dinosaurs as you drive the roads.
The birding was actually quite pleasant, especially as
the temps warmed up a bit. Species that
one would expect in the desert were certainly present. Phainopepla, not much different that black-painted
Cardinals, were quite numerous. Pointblank views of a Ladder-backed Woodpecker
were rewarding. The Loggerhead Shrikes always sat so cooperatively on the Joshua
Tree tops, not much different a golfer would set up a ball on a tee.
Of course, a place like Joshua Tree is not all about the
birds. It’s about the people, too. Take Johnny Lang, for example. No, not this one. Joshua Tree’s Johnny Lang is a character of different sorts. Some might consider him a hack. A fraud. A liar. Sure. They’re all right. After he had entered into a gold mining
partnership at the Lost Horse Mine, his partners soon discovered that he was
skimming the profits. Even after he was
bought out, he still stuck around and
still found ways to get himself into trouble. After all, trespassing in those
days was a big deal, right?
January of 1925 saw the end of old Johnny. After tacking a note to the front door of his
ramshackle cabin saying he was heading out for grub, the winter chill got the
best of him. One of his former mining
partners found him deader than a doornail on the very spot he curled up for the
night. He was buried where he was found.
Local legends say that Lang had hidden much of the gold
that he had stolen over the years.
Attempts to find his stash have turned up nothing. If it actually exists, maybe someone will
find it. Maybe someone will find his
skull. That’s missing, too. It was
apparently stolen during the second grave robbing episode.
After descending from the Park, we found ourselves gawking
at the traffic jam of folks trying to get in.
We really gained an appreciation for the solitude that we had during our
chilly,…er, freezing sunrise.
After a quick lunch at Jack-in-the-Box (sure to be known
later on in life as “cholesterol-in-the-blood) and a quick stop to secure
colder weather gear, we headed off the Big Morongo Canyon Preserve to round out
the days birding and hiking. Big Morongo
is a big treasure. While not huge in size, the habitat variety is immense.
Marsh, desert, woodland, rocky hillsides.
Outside of frozen tundra (we left that at Joshua Tree), this place
seemed to have it all. Where else can
one see Virginia Rail, a Fox Sparrow and California Thrasher on a piece of property
the size of a postage stamp? Yes folks,
California Thrasher – life bird #664. We
scored Western Scrub Jay and California Towhee for Natalie. All in all, it is an amazing piece of land.
Our stop for the night was Brawley. The beer scene there is not amazing. In fact,
it blows. California is considered one
of the leaders in the microbrewery/craft beer scene. During the 1970’s and 80’s, they set the
trend. As Natalie and I were planning
this trip, we were pretty sure good beer would readily available as this state
really got the ball rolling. While we
enjoyed a nice pizza, the best we could do was a Dos Equis. Sad.
Very sad.
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