Super Size It...Small And Big

Timing was off this morning, and I did not have a chance for sunrise photography on the beach like I was hoping. After a quick bite at Denny’s (before sunrise), I had to move along to Raymondville. My destination? The San Miguelito Ranch by 8:00am. I had made prior arrangements with Leticia, who ultimately put me in touch with her daughter, Lisa. I met her at the gate, where I joined her in the truck for the short drive (~4 miles) to the house. We went into the back yard and there they were: FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWLS (life bird #619). Five,in fact. They just sat there. At 6 ½” tall they are the second smallest in the North America and, as you might imagine, one of the most difficult to find due to their size and such limited range. It cost me only $30.00. Money well spent. I snapped a few photos and took off. I did not want to disturb them. Ultimately, however, they did not seem to care much. The Ranch, I’m happy to say, has begun to recognize that people like me will travel and pay to see birds and other wildlife. They are looking to expand their ecotourism opportunities.

After a quick break at a rest stop (where the marker says Zachary Taylor did the same thing under the same tree in 1846 as a General leading troops to Mexico), I headed off to Corpus Christi. Lunch was at Blackbeards where I had Blue Paddle, another fine beer from the New Belgium Brewing Company. While the beer was very heady and good,I probably need to re-evaluate it at a later date. What sort of dump gives you a plastic glass for a beer?

After lunch, I spent a few hours doing the self guided tour of the USS Lexington. For you WWII nuts, I’m sure you know the Lex, CV-2, is at the bottom of Coral Sea and has been there since 1942. This is CV-16, commissioned in 1943. Either way, it is very impressive. The ship has a self guided tour where you can go literally from top to bottom and stem to stern. The engine room, the medical quarters, the bridge, the flight deck, the ops room. A highlight was meeting Joe. He was volunteering on the bridge and actually served on the ship during WWII. It was an honor to meet him. While the airplanes on deck were mostly from the jet age, walking the tight corridors and climbing those ridiculous stairs was really something else.

Even though the tour route was clearly marked, it was very easy to get turned around. I soon found myself giving up on the thought of trying to figure out where I was (port side vs. starboard, for example). Its incredible to think that sailors were expected to not only know where they were, but find their way around in the dark, if needed. Or, in a worse case scenario, in the dark with the ship upside down. 42,000 tons of welded plates and miles of cable. Awesome.

My whole afternoon is now ahead of me. It was this point that my trip took a totally unplanned turn. I suddenly found myself with the urge to find Fulvous Whistling-Duck. I thought they were possible in the Valley, but apparently not this late in the season. I recalled from a book that I was thumbing through at Laguna Atascosa that they can be found in the fields outside of Katy, a suburb of Houston. With that tiny bit of info, and the urge to make it work, I shot off to the greater Houston area. I got a room for the night in Katy. Dinner, by the way, was at Landry’s. Angel hair pasta with shrimp, crab, and crayfish. A nice meal. A fine place.

Next to my hotel was a Kinko’s. I logged onto the internet there (I don’t have a laptop) to see what I could drum up. I had some places to hit in the morning.

Finally, The Ocean

Before sunup, I was on my way to Brownsville. My destination? Sabel Palm Sanctuary. The gate was closed. I thought they open at sunup, but I guess not. A bird I needed was in there, but I had a third spot lined up. TC took me to the intersection of East Cowan Terrace and Heather Lane. A few short minutes later, and I was looking at a YELLOW-GREEN VIREO (life bird #618). Recognizing that this was a residential neighborhood that probably wasn’t used to bird traffic like the other one in McAllen, I did not stay long.

I sped back to Sabel Palm. White-tipped Dove was nice, as where the Least Grebes. I also got some great looks at Black-chinned Hummingbird (literally feet away at the feeders). All in all, I thought it was a bit slow, however. I opted to take the road out to Boca Chica Beach. Botteri’s Sparrows were right were the books said they would be. More Harris’s Hawks were nice, too. An Osprey was very cooperative. I also spent some time at Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge. Long-billed Curlew and most of the waders made for a nice drive. The Crested Caracara was just a bit too far out for good photographs. While I had seen quite a few on this trip as a whole, none were really photographable. I was ultimately hoping for Aplomado Falcon. No, I can’t count it, but it would be nice to see one anyhow. I didn’t. Spending some time near the water drip photographing Green Jays was pleasant.

As dinner time approached, I opted to head back to South Padre Island. I had been there before with my sister in November of 2005 (thus, some of these Rio Grande Valley birds were not new). I was feeling artsy-fartsy and knew I could have some fun over there. After securing a place to stay (twice as much as the Alamo Inn and half as nice), I had dinner with an old friend: the Padre Island Brewing Company. There was only one new beer since I was there a few years back, the Raspberry Wheat. With my new found knowledge from the Brewmaster’s Club at Sea World, I am certain grapes or a light cheese would have complimented this beer nicely. The quail was delicious, but it took a while for me to get it. I thought perhaps they had to head to Davis Mountains to shoot one.

I spent the sunset hours on the boardwalk (after leaving the ocean side beaches) where I photographed yet another water tower. The sunset itself was quite possibly on of the nicest I I have ever seen. Clapper Rail, Marbled Godwits, and Black Oystercatchers were just as stunning.

Bentsen Birding

By sunrise, I was hiking the road at Bentsen-Rio Grande State Park. It was already horribly humid and getting warmer by the second (the previous day had a heat index of 109). I immediately went to the Photo Blind were a singing CLAY-COLORED ROBIN (life bird # 614) put on a brief show. A short time later, my first GROOVE-BILLED ANI (life bird #615) showed up. I believe I heard the Yellow-green Vireo, but it was easily 200 feet or more off the trail. There was no way of seeing it. The Harris’ Hawk that was perched in the tree was well worth it, but the lighting just sucked for photography. The tram that runs the park brought me back to the center. I was concerned that I had somehow managed to miss Altamira Oriole. They breed there. I was planning on getting some more water and heading back out to look for it. I had not even stepped off the tram when I saw one tugging on vegetation trying to gather nest material. ALTAMIRA ORIOLE (life bird #616).

Estero Llano Grande State Park was next on my list. I simply wanted to see the Sulpher-bellied Flycatcher (I had already seen one in Arizona years ago). After all the traffic issues it took to get there, I was politely told I came to the wrong park. I doubled back to Quinta Mazatlan where I found the bird easily, after being shown where the nest was. (That place, by the way, is great. It’s an old 1930’s adobe style home that had great habitat that is said to be super birding spot in the winter. It is now a part of the World Birding Center. They were getting ready for a wedding when I was there. It is that kind of a place.)

I shot over to Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge and walked a bit. Not much. Again, really damned hot. I was hoping to do the wildlife drive, but they were closing the gates early that day. The ponds on the property were very low. I also managed a quick photo of the water tower outside the refuge.

Dinner was at BJ’s Brewhouse. It is, I believe, a regional chain. All in all, I was impressed. The Jeremiah Red was the best of the four samples (the others being the Piranha Pale Ale, Brewhouse Blonde, and PM Porter). I never I thought I would say something like this, but the spinach artichoke pizza was very, very good!

Earlier in the day, Keith helped me with a post-dinner battle plan. While I was allowed to walk the roads of Bentsen after dark, I really did not feel up to it. He suggested simply driving the road immediately outside the park (the one that veers left after the parking lot as you approach the main gate). I did just that. It took me a few passes, but I saw that red eyeshine and ultimately had a wonderful look at a PARAQUE (life bird # 617) (puh-RAW-key) sitting on the road. I also saw my first wild tarantula.

Five Newbies

I was on the road in the dark for the final 30 miles to San Ygnacio, a quaint historic village along the Rio Grande. The historic Trevino-Uribe Ranch (from 1830) was neat but it was tucked into what is actually a very poor town. Very rundown. A place most people would not want to stop. Why was I there? White-collared Seedeater. A tough one (and more reliable in the winter) but I should at least give it a go. At the foot of Washington Street, a somewhat reliable location, I had no luck. I did, however, manage Green Kingfisher (life bird #609). I am very fortunate I stopped here. It was the only Green Kingfisher for the entire trip. I also managed Olive Sparrow (life bird #610) and Long-billed Thrasher (life bird #611) but I would see them often in the coming days. While I did not know it at the time, the crazy bird conversations that I heard between the US side and Mexican side were the Plain Chachalacas going nuts.

It was also here that I had a good chat with the Border Patrol. Anytime you came away from the River (outside of Big Bend, for example), there would be a check point. I was never hassled, but their presence was obvious. Here, they came down the slope to where I was and snooped around. They checked the bushes, checked the river, etc. for signs of people coming across illegally.

From there, I made some stops at Salineno, Falcon Dam (another water tower) Falcon State Park (where they mow dirt, I’m not kidding), and Amistad National Recreation Area. The dam was a damned bust. The Federal presence there has eliminated access to much of the good birding locations. The area I was hoping to bird a bit at the NRA had roads that were under construction. Salineno, on the other hand, was just plain nice. There is a great spot at the river where you can pull your truck under a tree and relax. I didn’t find it too birdy, but I was there at lunch time. There is a possibility that the greenish oriole that I could not relocate was indeed an Audubon’s Oriole, but we will never know. I needed that one, too. The Kiskadees were certainly cool, though!

The afternoon hike at Santa Margarita Ranch was tough. It was basically a short, flat version of my death march in the Chisos Mountains. Sure the river was less than one mile one way, but the altitude was MUCH lower so it was MUCH hotter (100 degrees plus humidty). I staked out the river for about an hour hoping for a good flyby but it was not too be. There were those two ducks on the water, in the distance. Try as I might, I just could not turn them into Muscovy. To this day, I am not sure what they were. Access to the riverfront? Two bucks. Total deal.

Roma Bluffs was worth a stop, too, but it did not pan out. Red-billed Pigeon, Muscovy, and Audubon’s Oriole were all possible flybys. No luck.

I made a quick stop at Bentson Rio-Grande State Park just to check the book and see what was in the area. A brief walk around the Visitors Center turned up Black-chinned Hummingbird.

By late dinner time, I had checked in at the Alamo Inn in Alamo. Keith and Audry are the owners. They are great and their place is great. I was given a room with a full bath, living room/dining area, and a full kitchen (with fridge, stove, and microwave) for $45.00 a night. The case of bottled water was complimentary. I have stayed in places for three times as much that are total dumps. The Alamo Inn is great. To make it all even better, Keith is a birder and runs a store right out of the main building (where you can also help yourself to breakfast). You need an extra shirt? He has it. A field guide? Its there. Plus, he was able to give me key suggestions for birds because he knows the region. Folks, if you are in the area, and you are a birder, you might be an idiot if you don’t stay at the Alamo Inn.

To make it even better, right across the street was the El Dorado, a first class Mexican restaurant. Awesome food and service. While I was cashing out, the young woman at the register asked me, with that “he’s a dream” sort-of-voice you would expect in a 1950’s movie: “Are you doctor?” “Why, yes I am. Do you have a specimen cup?” Okay, I didn’t say that, but she really did ask me. I swear.

With a good hour to kill before sunset, TC took me to the intersection of Mockingbird and Dallas Streets in McAllen. I immediately found GREEN PARAKEET (life bird #612). Within minutes, I had RED-CROWNED PARROT (life bird #613). In fact, it appeared they where nesting in the same tree. I opted to walk the neighborhood a bit, and tallied Plain Chachalaca, Swainson’s Hawk, and Black-bellied Whistling Duck. The Mockingbird with the perfect Killdeer call was impressive. For some reason, the Chachalaca struck me as odd here. It was a beautiful upper-class suburban neighborhood. You know, the kind of place a doctor might live….

Adios Big Bend...

Up with the sun and gone with wind (thanks, Bob). On my way out of the campground, I almost ran over a Common Poorwill on the road. As I made my way to Rio Grande Village, Scaled Quail were everywhere.

RGV was a location for two birds. Mark had told me the very wood lot for Common Black-Hawk. I had to get it here since I missed in the Davis Mountains. I could have easily found the woods myself. It was the area with maybe 10 Cottonwoods roped off with signs saying “Stay Out. Common Black Hawk nesting area”. Even from a distance I could hear raptors calling in the trees, but I could not see them. I was stunned that such a large bird could hide so well in such a small woodlot. I had the whole morning to see them. So, I parked my car in the shade, and with the patience of military sniper, I waited them out…

45 seconds later…”Screw this. I’m not sitting here.” I took my truck and drove to the end of the road and back. A very fortunate glance to my left and I saw two birds with bright orange/red undertail coverts and obnoxiously long, decurved bills along a hedge. Crissal Thrasher (life bird #607). I was aware of them being here, and I knew I had a chance, but I was not counting on them by any means. A nice find.

Back to the stakeout. Within a few minutes, a Common Black-Hawk (life bird #608) did a sideways shuffle down a branch to sun itself. Within 60 seconds, it was gone, courtesy of the Northern Mockingbird that harassed it.

It was also here in the campground I gained a new appreciation for the vocal skills of the Mockingbird. It was here that I decided I really need to see the birds and not pay too much attention to the song. I watched a Mockingbird give a flawless rendition of a Belted Kingfisher. Had I not watched the bird sing the song, I would have marked “Kingfisher” on my list for sure. The Rio Grande was not far.

With my two key birds for the day out the way, temps rising steadily to 418 degrees Kelvin, and a long drive ahead of me, I headed off. On the way out of the park, on the main road,I saw my only snake of the entire trip. A split second after realizing it was a snake, I accidently ran it over. There was no way to stop or swerve. That really made me mad. Of all the things to hit with your car, and I have to run over a snake in a National Park. Oh hell no, I couldn’t have hit a raccoon in Arkansas…..

By the way, I did not get Lucifer’s Hummingbird or Gray Vireo in the park. That said, I was okay with it. I did not spend much time looking for them simply because I had seen them during other trips.

I managed to get to Laredo for the night. Along the way, I made some quick stops in Carrizo Springs and Sanderson for water tower photos. Dinner was at a local place for ribs. Not bad. I had no idea they served baked beans in a coffee mug. Do they serve coffee on a plate?